Category Archives: Cold Process

Japanese Indigo Soap

Last October, I had the pleasure of meeting Maya of Infusions (you can read about it here). She gave me some precious gifts and soaping ingredients, and one of them was Japanese indigo powder.

Indigo 4

Japanese Indigo: raw powder and in soap

I love the colour of indigo and have always been curious to try it in soap, but had never been in possession of it until I met Maya. Now that things have quieted down after the holiday rush, I have the time to experiment with new formulae and ingredients.

Other than Maya’s post on soaping with Japanese indigo, I could not find much material on the subject. She had explained to me how to use it, but just to make sure I’m using it correctly, I emailed her. I don’t want to miss anything, so I thought I’d share her exact instructions:

As for the indigo, I have used it after making water infusion and as powder, added directly to the soap batter and also to the lye.

I used 1/2 teaspoonful of indigo powder for 12 ml hot water, infused for a couple of hours. I used about 2/3 (8 ml) of the infusion but what looked to me like a medium color may be considered dark by others. I think it is best to see the color of your batter and decide when to stop adding indigo-infused water as the color of the soap does not change much after the soap hardens. You can enhance the color by letting the soap gel.

The second method, adding dry powder directly to the soap gives you a speckled look. I do not remember how much I used but you can decide the amount of powder on the go.

Two things to keep in mind:
1. The color morphs to a very dark bluish gray if the powder is added directly to lye. It is best to add the indigo (in whatever form) at medium trace, after the saponification has advanced and the NaOH molecules have bonded with the oil molecules and cannot react with the indigo.
2. If you use EV olive oil, you will get a deep greenish blue due to the color of the olive oil.

Generally speaking, the indigo color is relatively stable in CP soap but it still fades a little with time. You need to keep it in a dark place to help the retention of color.

I decided to go with the first method, i.e. make a water infusion, and to add colour as needed after reaching trace. I ended up using all of my preparation, including the sediment that collected at the bottom of the glass. As you can see, the resulting colour is a bluish grey.  Indigo 1

I used olive oil, coconut oil, almond oil and cocoa butter with 2 milks:  yogurt and goat’s milk. For the essential oil blend, I used cypress, petitgrain, lemon 5-fold, orange 5-fold, cajeput, and basil.   It was only after mixing the EOs that I realised how yellow it was and that it would certainly have an effect on the colour. I thus used more of the EO in the uncoloured portion containing kaolin clay.  Predictably, it turned yellow.

It is not very obvious in the photos, but the indigo-coloured portion bleeds into the uncoloured part. The next time I make this, I will make it a solid colour. But because of the EOs, it will probably turn a greenish blue – which I don’t mind, because seriously, it smells fantastic!

Indigo 2

Indigo 3


Thank you, Maya, for letting me have this opportunity to soap with Japanese indigo. 🙂

Coming up next is another Japanese ingredient from Maya. Thank you for reading and have a wonderful week ahead! 🙂



Moringa Infusion with Charcoal Swirl

I have been making Moringa Tea Tree soap regularly but I usually make it a plain solid green from infusing powdered moringa in oil. A lady who always orders it requested for something with design. Wanting to keep it all-natural, I chose charcoal for the contrasting color of the swirls.  I must say I really like the new look and I hope it pleases her, too. 🙂

I had 4 batches of moringa powder steeping in olive oil since November but I needed 5.  I thus ended up making one batch with a week-old infusion.  I was a bit worried that it would come out a lighter green, but at the same time I was curious if there would be any difference.  You know what, the lone batch made with the one-week infusion was just as green as the ones with the 2-month infusion! I could not detect any difference at all!

Moringa Charcoal 1W

Moringa Charcoal 2W

Moringa Charcoal 3W






Meeting Ecoviolet

One of the best things about blogging is getting to meet people one would normally not have the chance to meet in this life.  Last October, I had the wonderful opportunity to meet Maya of Infusions in Tokyo (cross fingers, we may meet again this April!)  And just last Sunday, I met Janet of Ecoviolet Soap and her husband in Manila.

Janet already wrote me months ago about her plans for a first-time visit to the Philippines and Thailand – the birthplaces of her mother and father, respectively. When she had finally firmed up her schedule, I wasn’t sure if I could fly to Manila on those dates. But our meeting was meant to be;  just a few days beforehand, my husband said we were going to Manila to see an art fair and to visit his parents.  I was so excited when I realised the dates coincided with Janet’s visit!  Despite her tight schedule, we managed to meet, albeit it was just for two short hours – so not enough, as you can imagine!  Janet is a brilliant chemical engineer who is currently taking up her master’s in statistics.  With her background, making soap is almost second nature to her. I love learning about the scientific part of soap making, and talking with Janet felt like I was meeting Kevin M. Dunn himself!

We were so caught up chatting, we almost forgot to have our picture taken.  But we were able to have this shot at the hotel lobby, just before saying good-bye. Parting ways took a while since there was just so much to talk about! Hopefully we will have more time next time around. 🙂


Janet gifted me with an Orange Patchouli soap. Can I just say how incredible it smells?  I made a Blood Orange & Patchouli soap sometime ago, but I don’t remember it smelling as deep and aromatic as Janet’s.  Guess what I’m using tonight?  😉

Ecoviolet soap

I am so glad we met, Janet.  I hope you are having a great time in Bangkok. Safe travels! 🙂







Soap Photography

Compared to my soaping activities the last quarter, I have been slow since the start of the New Year.  This has given me time to finally learn the fundamentals of photography. I have been interested in photography for the longest time but my technical know-how has always been shaky.  I just wanted to compose and shoot. I mean, that’s the fun part, right? 🙂

Fortunately, and conveniently, hubby is intensely creative and a photography buff who really knows his stuff.  He has been casually giving me pointers but I can be a scatter brain when I don’t make an effort to focus.  When I annoyingly repeat the same question, that’s when he tells me to do my homework and read up.  But this time I am intent on learning.  I have been inspired by the gorgeous works of Clara Lindberg of Auntie Clara’s, and Zahida Map of Handmade in Florida.



Honey Yogurt

Honey Yogurt



Bamboo Yuzu 1

Bamboo Yuzu



Soap Rocks

I used to collect and save all the shavings and trimmings from bevelling my soaps with the intent of rebatching them or making them into confetti soaps.  More often than not, I lack the desire, or maybe it’s laziness, to repurpose them.  Knowing this about myself, I immediately make them into soap rocks – when they’re still fresh and soft, and easy to squeeze/compact and shape.  They’re all for personal use, and my mom, most especially, loves them. She keeps on emphasising that even when dropped, they don’t break.

The combination of different soaps is sometimes the basis of a new scent. If not for these soap rocks, I would have never thought to combine coffee, lavender, peppermint, sandalwood and vanilla.  Sounds weird, but smells divine!

Soap Rocks 1.1

Soap Rocks 2.2

Soap Rocks 3.3

Happy Sunday! 🙂


Patching Up Soap

I have been meaning to do a tutorial on how to patch up the inevitable holes that appear on soaps every now and then. To show you how overdue this post is, the pictures below were taken last August 6, 2014. The photos were hastily taken using my camera phone and not in the best possible light.  I will confess that I don’t like taking pictures of soaps that have not been cleaned up, and the only way to get through the chore was to do it quickly.

Holes are nothing but trapped air bubbles.  They usually appear in soaps with design, and especially when the soap batter starts to thicken before it can be poured into the mold.  Banging the mold helps release trapped air but doesn’t guarantee complete removal. Just like soda ash, holes are nothing but an aesthetic nuisance, and the ones most bothered by them are the soap makers.

Some soaps are simply beyond repair and are better off rebatched or chopped up as embeds. Most, however, simply need a little reconstructive patching up and they’re good as new.  It takes time, patience, and a light touch to leave as little “scarring” as possible.  Some can’t understand the work that goes into prettifying soap that’s just going to melt anyway, but soapmakers tend to be quite passionate and obsessive about their craft.

The other day I downloaded a free photo editing program called  PicMonkey . I learned about it sometime ago from another blogger.  I wish I could remember whose blog it was!  Anyway, I felt like a child that had just gotten a new toy.  As you can see, I am showing off the collage I made. (Ok, I got a little bit crazy and I also downloaded BeFunky for my iPhone. I arrived late to the photo editing party and I’m making up for the missed fun :p )

Patching Up Soap

1.  This was my first camo soap.  I made my own fragrance blend with woodsy notes of oak and fir, balanced out by honey, saffron, vanilla, and eucalyptus.  It smelled awesome and was popular with the boys, but it accelerated trace, hence the the holes.

2.  For this simple operation, we need an offset spatula, toothpicks, and soap trimming to fill up the holes. The triangular thing beside the spatula is some kind of pottery tool that I picked up when I went to Jingdezhen last year.  I don’t know what it’s called, but at that time I thought I could use it as a swirling tool.  Well, I never used it for swirling, but intuitively it was perfect for smoothening surfaces – soap or otherwise!  It’s great to have, but an offset spatula is perfectly sufficient.

3.  Like a dentist, I probe how deep and big the cavity is using a toothpick.  Some holes may appear deceptively small, but is actually a long tunnel under!

4.  Once you’ve assessed the size of the cavity, massage the required amount of soap trimming into a smooth and malleable ball or log – the consistency of play dough. Push the soap into the cavity using a toothpick.  Keep at it until you can’t push in any more.

5.  Flatten patched-up portion with the offset spatula. Wipe it clean. Tilt it at an angle and scrape off excess, in the same way that I did with the pottery tool in the photo.

6.  And there you have it!  After the soap fully cures, the colors will even out and the patches will hardly be noticeable.

woodland camo

Black Vetiver

Looking at my empty racks, I jumped right back to soaping on January 2.  But this time, it was at a leisurely pace. When I don’t soap for a couple of weeks, I feel rusty and my hands and arms seem heavier!  And it’s the same with blogging for me. Consider this my New Year blogging warm-up. 🙂

Here is Black Vetiver, a dupe of Jo Malone’s Black Vetyver Cafe, described as “a bitter coffee bean steeped in earthy notes of vetiver and temple incense.”  I have not smelled the original, but I mighty love the way this one came out in soap. I don’t smell coffee, but I detect woods, vanilla, and incense – making for a complex, sensual and mysterious scent.

I made 3 batches late last year, all using the hanger swirl technique, each with its own unique look. I had a hard time parting with them, but since my stock was running low, I eventually just kept 2 bars for myself.  I will definitely be making a new batch soon.

Black Vetiver 1


Black Vetiver 3


Black Vetiver 4

Black Vetiver



Wispy Swirls

I have been doing a lot of hanger swirls so I felt it was time to try something a bit different.  My goal was to make wispy swirls and my plan could only be executed if the soap stayed fluid.  I honestly don’t have a definite approach for this technique. It’s all trial and error.  I have tried pouring colors alternately straight into the mold, sometimes tilting it ala dandelion zebra swirl; I have also tried breaking the flow of the soap batter with a spatula so that it forms a thinner line.  To make the swirls, I do it with a chopstick in 2-steps: the first swirl is done after half the batter has been poured, and the second swirl after all the batter has been poured.

Several times I had to abandon my plans altogether and do whatever I could to save the soap from rejection.  That usually means a lot of banging.  My neighbours are probably wondering what all that noise is especially late at night! 😀

I definitely need more practice and I think breaking the flow of the soap batter with a spatula produces better results. The problem is, I have a tendency to forget about the spatula! Except for Gingered Bergamot, I have been quite daring and I used fragrances that I have never tried before.

These are the ones that came out ok:

Gingered Bergamot

Gingered Bergamot





Cucumber Melon

Cucumber Melon

White Tea & Ginger

White Tea and Ginger

Blush- pictured below, had accelerated trace.  You can easily tell from the rough top surface and the shaggy swirls.



This last one riced and traced very fast.  I should have known. It is a fresh, clean, and sea-like scent.  From my experience, this type of fragrance usually moves fast.  I thought this was a goner, but after some patching up (the design makes a good camouflage), it looked pretty decent to me.  I really love this scent.  I hate working with difficult FOs but I think it may be worth the trouble.

Salty Sea Air

Salty Sea Air

This is my last post for 2014.

It has been an awesome soap-full year and I hope it has been for you, too! Thank you for being with me on this blog.  It wouldn’t be the same without you. 🙂

I wish you all a splendid Christmas and a happy & healthy New Year!

See you again soon!